HDMI Switches & Input Management - Connect All Your Devices

They do opposite things. An HDMI switch connects multiple source devices (like a game console, streaming box, and Blu-ray player) to one TV input - you select which source to watch. An HDMI splitter takes one source and sends it to multiple displays simultaneously - all TVs show the same content. Most home users need a switch (multiple devices, one TV). Businesses often need splitters (one cable box feeding multiple TVs in a sports bar). The terminology is confusing because they sound similar, but the functionality is completely different.

Quality switches maintain full signal quality with no visible degradation. The key is matching the switch's capabilities to your content. A 4K@60Hz switch passes 4K@60Hz content perfectly. Problems occur when using a switch rated below your content quality - a 4K@30Hz switch will downgrade 4K@60Hz content. For most streaming and movie watching, any decent 4K switch works fine. For gaming at 4K@120Hz or with VRR, you need an HDMI 2.1 switch specifically rated for those features. Buy a switch that matches or exceeds your highest-quality source device's output capability.

Some do, some don't. Passive switches (usually 3 ports or fewer) draw power from the HDMI signal itself and don't need external power. Active/powered switches (usually 4+ ports or higher bandwidth) need USB or AC power to boost the signal properly. Powered switches are generally more reliable, especially for 4K content or longer cable runs. If you're having signal issues with a passive switch, try a powered alternative. For HDMI 2.1 gaming switches, powered models are essentially required due to the high bandwidth demands.

HDCP (High-bandwidth Digital Content Protection) is likely the culprit. Streaming services use HDCP to prevent copying, and some cheap switches don't handle HDCP properly. When HDCP handshake fails, you get a black screen or error message. Solutions: use a switch that specifically states HDCP 2.2 (or 2.3) compliance, try connecting the streaming device directly to test, or use a different HDMI port on the switch. Quality switches from reputable brands handle HDCP correctly - this is mostly an issue with very cheap no-name switches.

If you want surround sound, yes - an AV receiver provides HDMI switching plus audio processing that separate switches can't match. Receivers decode Dolby Atmos/DTS:X, power speakers, and provide room calibration. If you're only using TV speakers or a soundbar, a simple HDMI switch is more cost-effective and less complex. The decision point is audio: stereo/soundbar setup = HDMI switch is fine; surround sound system = AV receiver makes sense. Receivers cost more ($300-1000+) but replace the need for separate switching and audio equipment.